Posted by: Turkadactyl | May 20, 2016

Fortifications- Aquila Strongpoint WIP

I have a lot of terrain and fortifications that have to be painted.  Playing a game with unprimed terrain is a wee bit uninspiring.  My goal is to get at least 75% of my terrain and fortifications painted up by November.  I want fortifications for the assault on the Palace of Thorns for Badab War YEG.  Somewhere in there I have to fit in some Space Marine vehicles and Cataphractii Terminators.  I figured I would get started on the biggest fortification I have and that is the Aquila Strongpoint.

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A while back Miniwargaming had a sale on a lot of product.  I loaded up on some Army Painter primers.  When the Plasma Obliterator was released I gravitated towards the mix of gold and blue so I figured I would use blue on my fortifications.  I’m a little disappointed with how the Strongpoint started.  The tone of blue was different and I wasn’t too excited about the colour.  Since I am a frugal person I’ve decided that I am going to make this work.

I had an odd experience and let me know if you have experienced anything similar.  I was using GW Drankenhof Nightshade and it didn’t look like it was making any difference on the plastic.  I notice that the bottom was thicker so I stir things up and start over.  After the shade dried I noticed that the paint was stripped in some recesses and the plastic melted in two spots.  This is the first time I have experienced this.  If you have too then drop a comment.  I am curious to see if this is an isolated incident.

With the shade applied the blue has a dirtier look to it.

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The next step was drybrushing Altdorf Guard Blue followed by Etherium Blue.

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I used Nuln Oil on the Leadbelcher painted platforms.  I’m not completely sold on the blue at this point but I have a lot of other colours to add to the decorative parts.

I then proceeded to work on the Macro Cannon.

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Now for some drybrushing.

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The next step is painted the base colours, which will be followed up with a shade in the recesses.  For the gold I applied Retributor Armour followed by Burnished Gold.  The other colours I used are Leadbelcher, Rakarth Flesh, Scab Red, Mithril Silver and Bubonic Brown.

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Unlike the blue portions I will only be applying the shade into the recesses and corners.

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Okay, I can breath a sigh of relief.  I will admit it does not look as sharp as some other Strongpoints I have seen posted on the interwebs but once all the colours are on the blue is alright.  Out of all the Strongpoints I have seen I recommend using black instead of blue like I did.  The gold and black go very well together, much better than what I have done.  I don’t mind the blue now and it is a colour I can live with.

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Not too long ago I was visiting Confessions of a 40K Addict.  Dave posted the brilliant 40K life hack you see above and I thought, “Hmm, I should do that.”  Well, I should have followed my brain.  I knocked over my pot of shade.  It is one of the new pots that have doubled in size.  I probably lost a third of the pot and it made quite the mess.  Lesson learned.  Follow Dave’s advice.


Responses

  1. I think it looks pretty sweet, it will dominate any battle field. Well done.

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  2. Nice work man. Good colour choice. I’ve had no dramas with Nightshade.

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    • I hadn’t had any issues with any shades or washed until this bottle. Maybe I sneezed on it.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Weird. I used to print glazes for a job and every now and then Id open a jar and find that the glaze had gone bad for no reason. They were always kept in air tight jars but it could still happen.

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  3. Great work and colour combo. Gold and Blue, Navy style.

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  4. I think the blue is rather striking with all the gold. great work on it!

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  5. I know you aren’t happy with it yourself but I am really liking the look of that. Great stuff and more thansuitable for a table already.

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    • Working on the cannon softened by stance a bit. I wasn’t happy with the blue on it’s own. I think also I was expecting a brighter blue similar to the stock photo of the Plasma Obliterator and that set me up for disappointment.

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  6. I agree with the above, the tones look good to me. I know what you mean about unpainted terrain being uninspiring. Think I’m gonna have to bite the bullet soon and just crack on with it.

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    • The Strongpoint has a bit more detail so it’s taking longer. Terrain is great for drybrushing. It won’t take you too long at all.

      Liked by 1 person


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